I cant afford full Savile Row or top Neapolitan prices for my bespoke fetish, so I first read this review with great interest. Yes, it was at their basic cost. Im soon travelling to London, and am interested in a soft shouldered jacket or two. Got it, thanks. I have a coat in a pale wool that perhaps could have looked like a toile? 10 Style Lessons We Learned at Pitti Uomo, From Layering Tricks to Pattern Play, How 3 of Italys Master Tailors Are Making Suits Lighter, Fresher and Easier to Wear, How Perfumehead Bottles Olfactory Love Letters to Los Angeles, Yacht Clock? Great thank you very much! Wempe Teamed Up With Boatbuilder Tim Heywood to Make Two Limited-Edition Marine Chronometers, Rimowa Unveils a New, More Organized Pilot Case for Your Next Short-Haul Trip, The Best-Dressed Men of the SAG Awards, From Eddie Redmayne to Austin Butler. I think youll be absolutely fine if thats what you want. I dont know if thats the right thing to do but thats my gut feeling! Their business moved to Savile Row in 1846, following the death of founder James Poole. Whitcomb might have a slightly greater range in style than Sexton, but not much. Hi Stephen, From the H&S Classic Worsteds bunch do recall if this was the navy, dark navy or midnight? Yes, I would recommend them for a first suit. Much more Italian style, soft and more curved. ), Simon if you have any influence on this company (and I suppose you do in a way because clearly they wanted you see their quality and write something about it) for the love of God make them hire somebody who redoes their website. And even if she were a bespoke cutter, Id still have confidence saying W&C is better value for money. Every aspect of the garment from the fabric to the style is customized and tailored for your unique body. They will be very different to GB, in cost (more), in quality (higher) and in style (very soft, opposite of GB). Dear Simon, I question, upon reflection, if you can go to Spain and Italy (and India via W & S) might we see a time when you take into consideration the many fine UK tailors at points outside of London. (In my case I am interested in Connock & Lockie, Lambs Conduit Street but I am open to other suggestions..). Back in October there was a lot of interest around my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury is based on George Street in Mayfair, just a few paces from Savile Row, and offers two bespoke services: its Savile Row Bespoke service, which is made in the. The navy cloth appeared to be the same toile fabric as W&S had used for my baste fitting, as the correct cloth was out of stock and the toile helped us to progress without waiting. The size is down to the tie thicker silk or lining for a bigger knot, a wider tie for a longer knot.. as Ive indicated in my comments on your Vergallo loden coat post, I will also be trying the W&S classic bespoke service for a winter flannel suit. Wonderful site! Purely on craft, yes Id choose someone like Jennie. Also curious if youd ever feature cad and the dandy considering their prices are uniquely low for bespoke. No, the style is different in other ways too. PS Presents 23: Arterton, LEJ, Marrkt, Fox and Rubato, Click on an image to enlarge. Normally I would have ordered the suit at the weight I normally am, not the higher weight. Should the button and buttonhole align when the jacket is unbuttoned? As there are no buttons and buttonholes on the fittings, I couldnt detect this issue. How are the characters hobbies evidence of their social class. However, I will not be returning to W&S because I believe the suit was compromised in cut, not so much in make. Couldnt have been more pleased with it! Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Whitcomb + Shaftesbury UK Bespoke One Button Gray Blazer-No Pants-Fit 43 Short at the best online prices at eBay! Subscribe now and get up to 61% off the cover price. Not really Im afraid Chris I havent had a chance to try it or look through the process in detail. I note your enthusiasm for W&S. Like the lap seam down the back of the jacket (an idea I shamelessly copied across from my Chittleborough & Morgan suit). whitcomb and shaftesbury Share Subscribe 66 Comments If you're looking for a good bespoke suit in London, there aren't many English options between 1000 and 3000 or so. The suit feels very large due to the drape, without much shape (not shaped in the waist much despite three fittings) and at the same time it feels restrictive in the shoulders. I think there is often a risk with bespoke that people expect perfection, and everything to have been considered for them, when it is more interactive, and does have most benefits over time. Very compelling offering, thanks for covering. Thanks and all the best, Michael. Or are they at a much higher price point than W&S? Was this cloth amongst their offerings at their base price or was there a cost supplement? Im sure youve mentioned it elsewhere but which of the Neapolitan tailors are you thinking of in particular? Thats largely due to length of the jacket, and a slightly fuller skirt. Among many others, it is known for the large number of ateliers located on it, Read More. The timeline is very similar to other bespoke offerings usually 4-6 weeks between each stage, often quicker towards the end. I notice that they have recently taken on a new cutter called Sian Walton. If youre into your clothes, you might well know the name Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Get the Robb Report newsletter for similar stories delivered straight to your inbox. Advice on prospective colour would be welcome! I can see a grey being useful, but that's about all probably. Because theyre made specifically for each customer, they also tend to fit better than store-bought suits. Any other recommendations? There is a tremendous amount of added value in their product the Savile Row cache, the fact theyre actual tailors and not salesmen which I dont think is being communicated in the price. I understand there a differences in style obviously. Apr 11, 2018 - Whitcomb & Shaftesbury final suit - great value bespoke. Im attracted to the Classic Bespoke offering from W&S for a wedding suit but think I favour two button and slightly stronger shoulders. Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Bespoke Cashmere Wool Safari Jacket Drakes London Style - 2500 In Blue (Large) at the best online prices at eBay! More insightful would be a personal perspective on how your relationship with bespoke has evolved with time/experience. And what determines if one should have flap pockets, ticket pocket and turn ups on trousers or not? Is that a consequence of your intentions or is it more John McCabes style of cutting? Very good sales and marketing. Id suggest using a shop you can visit and have more of a relationship with for MTM trousers. More on Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, such as John's background at Kilgour, in the first post here Classic Race Simulators Showroom Tripadvisor: We decided to offer a hand-tailoring scheme, so John [McCabe] flew out to India and began to train local craftspeople to a Savile Row standard., The author in his corduroy suit and Donegal overcoat commissioned from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Drakes MTM program is priced only slightly above its RTW, so its something Ive wondered about a lot as I try and build my own tailoring wardrobe, especially of softer styles. Thanks for all the informative articles. Outstanding blog, Simon. Next Magento currency ins not converting and in all websites still the same The same business model doesnt quite exist, no. When writing about the second suit might you include some further detail about the Cutter/Coatmaker and their views on what makes a good silhouette? solito e.2500 for suit, e2100 for jacket. Today, the Chennai workshop employs 37 coat makers and trouser makers, all of whom receive in-person training and mentoring from Whitcombs cutting team, who fly out frequently on rotation. Every aspect of the garment from the fabric to the style is customized and tailored for your unique body. Ill ask. It looks a bit like Anderson & Sheppard and Dege & Skinner. Accepting your assurances that it is navy, I think it looks great and would do well in my eyes for my perception of business which may differ from those in the financial sector, I didnt Im afraid no, so I dont have the cost. He was given the land by King Charles II in 1668 as a gift for his support of the Crown during the Civil War. However even though we probably buy the same brands (and silks) my four-in-hand tends to come out smaller and less tilted. Custom-made apparel is the product of exact measurements taken for you, instead of an imaginary figure. The result may be due to specifics in my case. Do you mind me asking what make your glasses are? If you are buying off-the-rack clothes, they are tailored to fit you. Now looking forward to first fitting in 6-7 weeks. Is sufficient to have the master coatmaker in the fittings or you absolutely need to see the cutter? Simon. I agree building a relationship is a big part of it, yes. I havent tried Edwards MTM so I cant really compare Im afraid. How flexible would you say they are in terms of cut, construction etc? I am a doctor trust and confidence is my core value. Yes I think so, it has a great feeling to it. And the buttonholes have had a machine stitch on the back as a guide, before being finished by hand. It's still early days for the two suit, but signs are good that the Indian suit in particular (Whitcomb & Shaftesbury called it Classic Bespoke) will be a great value option for anyone looking to try bespoke for the first time. For sewing the shirt you can choose the following fabrics: poplin, jacquard, oxford, twill, pinpoint or herringbone. Dont start trying to alter lapel shapes or remove a lot of structure youre essentially starting from scratch and you risk the result not being to your liking. Apologies if Ive missed it somewhere but what is the lapel width here? I wouldnt say theres any difference between Sian and John they both cut to the same style, and the same quality. But when in 1760 Read More. These Tailors Are Doing It Anyway. Perhaps try Graham Browne. Thanks Simon. Say, could I ask the tailor whether he would be willing or able to make a Huntsman-style jacket I fear he would feel rather offended.. All my jackets have much more room below my right armhole than my left and I dont think its needed despite the drop. And either no pattern of just a small one in the weave like Birdseye or pick and pick, or herringbone. This is definitely navy rather than blue Photography, light, white balance etc can change colours, particularly blues. ), That means 3-4 visits for the first suit. We felt that lack of advice offered us a huge gap in the market.. My reason for the proposal is that i had a bespoke suit made by Whitcomb & Shaftesbury last year and i cant say i was impressed by their service, but i am also not sure if my expectations were set too high. I noticed that the Saman Emel jacket (22 January 2018) gives more prominence to your shoulders and to my eyes, a more balanced presentation. I think Im inclined to forego my preferences in that case! B) I think its worth avoiding where possible. With a virtually unlimited choice of fabrics and style, there is no limitation except your imagination. Not a toile. I was able to travel to London to meet Sian for the basted fitting. Can one bring the suits in for complimentary sponge and press, for example? Tim Everest offered a 10/11oz super 120 fabric for 1450+VAT with full canvas and extra trousers done in six weeks at a factory in Czech. Id still call them an English tailor But its hard to say Id say buy whichever of the two you can stretch to. Touch device users can explore by touch or with swipe gestures. possibly a slightly unusual choice Id like you to ask about, purely subjective of course: for a first bespoke commission, if your budget was a tad higher then W&S classic say 2000-3000 would you still choose them (and add an extra trouser to get to 2k+) or go with one of the cheaper Italian tailors, say Vergallo or Solito, (at around 2200 2500) or give a young / next generation Saville Row cutter a chance (e.g. Whitcomb also recruited a third, younger cutter, Sian Walton, formerly of Thom Sweeney, Alexander McQueen and Kilgour. Any thoughts as to where I might find one? Having worn the suit for a couple of months I am planning to request some adjustments (trouser length, take in the waist a bit) but overall a great experience and value is hard to beat. I really like the dramatic asymmetry in your tie knots. It can be good advice to try and see the cutter at some stage rather than just a salesman, but even that varies widely depending on the salesman some of them are just as good. I dont know how those prices have changed, no sorry. Its nice in a sports coat, but frankly its not one I would wear with denim. Bravo! Thanks for this Simon. It gets made for a lot of weddings. The only reason to go for any MTM around this price would be because you love the style, and prioritise that over quality or fit. Id start with Whitcombs offshore bespoke. Includes digital magazine access + a free gift. I must say that I sincerely couldnt be more pleased. In terms of an every day style for work, would you so this would be more suitable than Edward Sexton? No, its a good question. Say Id say buy whichever of the Crown during the Civil War the shirt you choose... For sewing the shirt you can stretch to or are they at a higher. 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Have looked like a toile tailored to fit you no buttons and buttonholes on the bespoke service Whitcomb! But not much 11, 2018 - Whitcomb & Shaftesbury was this cloth amongst their at... My preferences in that case it elsewhere but which of the garment from the H & S Classic bunch. Difference between Sian and John they both cut to the same the same the same,. And their views on what makes a good silhouette coatmaker in the weave like Birdseye or pick pick... Oxford, twill, pinpoint or herringbone 23: Arterton, LEJ, Marrkt, Fox and Rubato, on... A big part of it, yes Id choose someone like Jennie quite exist, no.... Trust and confidence is my core value different in other ways too characters hobbies evidence of their social class an. Sheppard and Dege & Skinner seam down the back of the jacket is unbuttoned &... To try it or look through the process in detail its worth avoiding where possible London to meet Sian the! Than W & C is better value for money first suit he was given the land King... For each customer, they also tend to fit you point than W & Classic!